Probable Causes
The "No CO" error on a Norcold refrigerator (commonly displayed as "no co" on the control board) indicates a failure in the cooling unit — specifically, the absorption cooling system has lost its hydrogen/ammonia/water charge or developed a blockage. Common root causes include:
- Cooling unit failure — sodium chromate sediment buildup blocking the boiler tube or absorber coils
- Ammonia leak — a crack or corrosion hole in the cooling unit's steel tubing, often at the boiler section
- Thermistor failure — the fin thermistor reading incorrectly, causing the board to think cooling has failed
- Control board malfunction — a faulty board misinterpreting sensor data
- Burner or heating element failure — the unit isn't receiving heat input (LP gas or 120V element), so no cooling occurs
Urgency & Safety
High urgency. A failed cooling unit can leak ammonia gas and sodium chromate — both are toxic and flammable. If you smell a sharp chemical odor near the fridge or see yellow/green residue on the back of the unit, turn it off immediately, ventilate the area, and do not operate the fridge. Ammonia vapor in an enclosed RV can be a serious health hazard. Even without a visible leak, continued operation of a blocked cooling unit can overheat and cause a fire. Norcold has had multiple recall-related fire incidents.
DIY Difficulty
Moderate to Advanced. Diagnosing the thermistor and control board is manageable for a handy owner. Replacing a cooling unit is a significant job requiring refrigerant handling knowledge, physical strength (units weigh 50–80 lbs), and precise leveling. Board and thermistor swaps are intermediate-level repairs.
Typical Repair Cost
- Thermistor replacement: $20–$50 (part) / $100–$200 installed
- Control board replacement: $150–$350 (part) / $250–$500 installed
- Cooling unit replacement: $800–$1,500 (part) / $1,400–$2,500 installed
- Full fridge replacement: $1,800–$3,500+ depending on model
Parts You May Need
- Fin thermistor (match to your Norcold model — e.g., 638535 for 1200 series)
- Norcold replacement control board (model-specific)
- Replacement cooling unit (JC Manufacturing or Amish-rebuilt units are popular aftermarket options)
- 120V heating element (if element failure is confirmed)
- Multimeter and thermometer for diagnostics
Step-by-Step Diagnosis
- Power down the fridge and access the rear exterior panel behind the refrigerator (remove the outside vent cover).
- Inspect visually. Look for yellow or greenish powder/residue on the boiler tube or absorber coils. This is sodium chromate and confirms a cooling unit leak. If present, stop here — the cooling unit is dead.
- Smell for ammonia. A strong, pungent odor at the back of the unit confirms a leak.
- Check the thermistor. Locate the fin thermistor clipped to the cooling fins. Measure resistance with a multimeter — at room temperature (~75°F) you should see roughly 7,000–10,000 ohms. A reading of 0 (short) or OL/infinite (open) means a bad thermistor. Replace and reset the board before further diagnosis.
- Reset the control board. Disconnect shore power and LP, wait 30 seconds, reconnect. Power the fridge on and clear the error. If the error returns within 2–4 hours, proceed.
- Verify heat sources. On LP mode, confirm the burner ignites and holds flame. On AC mode, measure voltage at the heating element terminals — you should read 120V with the element showing 50–80 ohms resistance. A failed element or ignition issue means no heat, which means no cooling.
- Monitor temperatures. Place a thermometer in the food compartment. If heat sources are working and the thermistor checks out, but the box won't drop below ambient after 8–12 hours of level operation, the cooling unit is confirmed failed.
When to Call a Technician
Call a certified RV refrigeration technician if you detect ammonia smell or yellow residue, if you're uncomfortable working around LP gas systems, or if diagnosis points to a cooling unit replacement. Cooling unit swaps require proper handling and precise reinstallation to avoid immediate re-failure. Also contact Norcold directly to check whether your model/serial number falls under an active recall before investing in repairs.